Farm to Table Squared –

Fish & Game, Zak Pelaccio’s ur-local restaurant in Hudson, New York. It’s a beautiful restaurant, a former blacksmith shop that’s all dark wood and local craftsmanship, with an open kitchen and the scent of wood-smoke wafting through the romantically-lit room.

But it is definitely not for everyone.

If you’re intrigued by the notion of a restaurant so dedicated to using local products that the chefs make their own fish sauce, their own Worcestershire sauce and spend the summer canning vegetables to use in winter, you’ll want to eat here. Fish & Game does more than pay lip service to the notion of local food; they’re serious about the whole notion of local, seasonal and nose to tail. But like all great restaurants, this kitchen disdains the notion of playing it safe; the chefs are constantly experimenting, and not everything succeeds.

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