The Best New Restaurant in America: Shaya – Tom Junod

Gluttony is harderthan it looks. It’s listed as a sin, as something you give in to, when really it’s a skill, requiring not just hunger but resilience. That’s why the most resilient city in the country, New Orleans, is also the most gluttonous. That’s why Josh Ozersky, the most gluttonous food writer in the country, was also the most skillful, a hungry man who whetted the appetites of his readers while exploring the mystery of his own. And that’s why, when I went to New Orleans to eat at the new restaurant Josh picked as the year’s best before he died, I got worried.

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